Big wave surfing is a death-defying subdiscipline in which
experienced athletes ride huge waves, typically at least 20 feet (6.2
meters) high.
Consequently, big wave surfers prepare physically and
mentally for the world's largest waves in
several ways.
Physical preparation often involves training the body
through exercises that improve lung capacity, cardiovascular health, and oxygen
efficiency.
The training can include activities such as breath training and yoga.
Mental preparation involves learning to embrace fear and
rigorously preparing for the worst-case scenario so that the surfer knows what
to do in difficult situations.
The psychological work can involve visualization,
meditation, and other mental exercises.
Big wave surfers may also prepare by learning about the
specific waves and conditions they will be surfing and practicing with smaller
waves before attempting larger ones.
However, Mother Nature is sometimes way too mighty for the
human spirit, and surfers find themselves in life-or-death situations.
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